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  • ANCIENT EGYPTION CLOTHING

    Ancient Egyptian clothing

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    Main article: Clothing in ancient Egypt

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    Women entertainers perform at a celebration in Ancient Egypt; the dancers are naked and the musician wears a typical pleated garment as well as the cone of perfumed fat on top of her wig that melts slowly to emit its precious odors; both groups wear extensive jewelry, wigs, and cosmetics; neither wear shoes – Tomb of Nebamun c. 1400 BC

    Textile materials

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    Although aware of other materials, the ancient Egyptians most commonly used linen, a product made from the abundant flax plant.[1] Due to a belief that animal-based fabrics were impure, wool was rarely used and was forbidden in places like temples and sanctuaries. Other animal-based products such as pelts were reserved for priests and eventually were adopted by only the highest class of ancient Egyptian citizenry.[2] Linen is light, strong and flexible which made it ideal for life in the warm climate,[3] where abrasion and heat would wear and tear at clothing. Thus, most ancient Egyptians used linen as their primary textile.

    The material quality of garments differed between the classes, where those of the upper class used finer linens, depicted in statues and paintings by their translucency.[2] They also used more complex drapery, designs and patterns that included dyed threads and feathers. These materials were expensive and the wearer showed greater status by wearing them.[4] On the other hand, cheaper and thicker linen was used within the lower class, where shorter garments were worn by the working class for better mobility in the fields.

    Garments

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    Men in ancient Egypt often wore the loincloth (or schenti common in all classes) although men of a higher class wore longer schenti, often pairing them with a draped cape or tunic. It was considered acceptable for men and women alike to bare their chests, in both upper and lower classes.[5] A complete lack of clothing, however, was often associated with youth or poverty; it was common for children of all social classes to be unclothed up to the age of six, and for slaves to remain unclad for the majority of their lives.[6][failed verification] Certain clothing common to both genders included the tunic and the robe. Around 1425 to 1405 BC, a light tunic or short-sleeved shirt was popular, as well as a pleated skirt.

    Clothing for adult women remained unchanged over several millennia, save for small details. Draped clothes with very large rolls gave the impression of wearing several items.[7] It was in fact a hawk, often of very fine muslin[dubious – discuss]. The dress was rather narrow and even constricting, made of white or unbleached fabric for the lower classes. Garments worn by higher classes featured sleeves starting under the chest and were held up by suspenders tied onto the shoulders.[5] These suspenders sometimes covered the breasts, other times passing between them, and were painted and colored for various reasons such as to imitate the plumage on the wings of Isis.

    The characteristic of the female garment in ancient Egypt Old Kingdom was a short skirt for the lower classes, or a kalasiris, a longer skirt reaching from the ankles to just below, or just above the breasts.[8] By the Middle Kingdom, long kilts were a fashion. They were like skirts, reaching from waist to ankles, sometimes even hanging from the armpits. The New Kingdom was the more luxurious period; people wore more clothing, sometimes in layers, with an inner and an outer garment. This outer layer was made of particularly fine, diaphanous pleated linen, and would appear almost transparent.[8]

    Clothing of the royal family was different, and was well documented; for instance the crowns of the Pharaohs as mentioned below, feather headdresses, and the khat or head cloth were all worn by nobility.

    Shoes were the same for both sexes; sandals braided with leather, or, particularly for the bureaucratic and priestly classes, papyrus.

    Perfume and cosmetics

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    See also: Beauty and cosmetics in ancient Egypt

    Embalming made it possible to develop cosmetic products and perfumery very early[clarification needed]Perfumes in Egypt were scented oils which were very expensive. In antiquity, people made great use of them. The Egyptians used make-up much more than anyone else at the time. Kohl, used as eyeliner, was eventually obtained as a substitute[dubious – discuss] for galena or lead oxide which had been used for centuries. Eye paint was the most common form and was used to shield the eyes from the sun.The reason for them to wear eye makeup is to protect the eyes from the sun’s rays and ward off infection. The dramatic makeup also imitated the facial markings of the sun god Horus, who was often depicted as a falcon. Eye shadow was made of crushed malachite and lipstick of ochre. Substances used in some of the cosmetics were toxic, and had adverse health effects with prolonged use. Beauty products were generally mixed with animal fats in order to make them more compact, more easily handled and to preserve them. Nails and hands were also painted with henna[dubious – discuss]. Only the lower class had tattoos.[dubious – discuss] It was also fashionable at parties for men and women to wear a perfumed cone on top of their heads. The cone was usually made of ox tallow and myrrh and as time passed, it melted and released a pleasant perfume. When the cone melted it was replaced with a new one (see the adjacent image with the musician and dancers). The use of cosmetics differed slightly between social classes, where more make-up was worn by higher class individuals [9] as wealthier individuals could afford more make-up. Although there was no prominent difference between the cosmetics styles of the upper and lower class, noble women were known to pale their skin using creams and powders.[9] This was due to pale skin being a sign of nobility as lighter skin meant less exposure to the sun whereas dark skin was associated with the lower class who tanned while taking part in menial labor such as working in the fields. This led to paler skin represented the non-working noble class, as noble woman would not work in the sun.

    Wigs and headdresses

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    Queen AhmosePharaoh Thutmose I, and daughter Neferubity – note the youthful sidelock on the child and the royal attire and wigs on the adults

    Although heads were shaven as both as a sign of nobility[10] and due to the hot climate, hairstyle was a huge part of ancient Egyptian fashion through the use of wigs.[11] Wigs were used by both sexes of the upper and lower class; the quality of wigs depended on the amount of disposable income available,[12] which created a visual rift between classes. Good quality wigs were made of human hair and were ornamented with jewels and woven with gold.[11] In the court, the more elegant examples had small goblets at the top filled with perfume; Pharaohs even wore wig beards for certain special occasions.[11] There is evidence of cheaper wigs made from wool and palm fibres, which were further substituted the woven gold used in its more expensive counterpart with beads and linen. The ancient Egyptians talent with substitution enabled wigs and headdresses to be worn by all social classes; for example. the nemes headdress, made from stiff linen and draped over the shoulders was reserved for the elite class to protect the wearer from the sun. On the other hand, headdresses such as the pschent were exclusive for the Pharaoh.[5] Pharaohs also wore various crowns to identify different divinities, such as the horned crown of the goddess Hathor. In both social classes children were represented with one lock of hair remaining on the right side of their head[12] (see the adjacent image). The most common headgear was the kaften, a striped fabric square worn by men.

    Ornaments

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    Ornaments could be worn by all and were even woven into hair,[11] resulting in wigs containing ornamental decorations. A peculiar ornament which the Egyptians created was gorgerin[dubious – discuss], an assembly of metal discs which rested on the chest skin or a short-sleeved shirt, and tied at the back. Some of the lower-class people of this time also created many different types of piercings and body decorations[dubious – discuss]; some of which even included genital piercings, commonly found on female prostitutes of the time[dubious – discuss].

    Jewellers

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    It was common for ancient Egyptians to be covered in jewellery because they believed it made them more attractive to the Gods. The upper class Egyptians were fascinated with gold jewelry. They believe that gold is the color of the sun, and it symbolises the sun’s permanence and immortality, because this metal does not corrode or oxidize with time.[13] Accessories were often embellished with inlaid precious and semi-precious stones such as emeraldspearls, and lapis lazuli, to create intricate patterns inspired from nature. Common motifs included white lotuses, palm leaves, and even animals that represented the gods. Although the jewellery used by the lower class had similar motifs and designs, they were made with cheaper substitute materials. Copper was used in place of gold, and glazed glass or faience – a mix of ground quartz and colorant – to imitate precious stones.[2] The most popular stones used were lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise. Jewels were heavy and rather bulky, which would indicate an Asian influence[dubious – discuss]. The lower classes wore small and simple glassware; bracelets also were heavy. They wore a large disk as a necklace of strength, sometimes described as an aegisGold was plentiful in Nubia and imported for jewelry and other decorative arts.

    Ancient Minoan clothing

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    As elsewhere, Cretan clothes in the ancient times were well documented in their artwork where many items worn by priestesses and priests seem to reflect the clothing of most. Wool and flax were used. Spinning and weaving were domestic activities, using a similar technique to the Egyptians of the time.[14] Fabrics were often embroidered and dyed.[15]

    Minoan clothing is exceptionally gendered, male clothing is in general sparse and uniform, whereas female clothing has much variety and intricacy; indicating well defined social constructs around gender.[16]

    Female Minoan dress

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    Fresco of three Cretan women in the open blouse that was typical in the later Minoan Culture – their skirts would have begun at the waist, were flounced, and of many colorful patterns

    In Minoan culture the loincloth was worn by both men and women. They are often illustrated in statuettes with a large dagger fixed at the belt. In contrast to Minoan males, females would wear less jewelry, though elaborate hairstyles were equally common.[17]

    Cretan women’s clothing included the first sewn garments known to history. Dresses were long and low-necked, with the bodice being open almost all the way to the waist, leaving the breasts exposed.[18] Dresses were often accompanied by the Minoan corset, an early form of corset created as a close fitting blouse, designed to narrow the waist.[18][19] The belt, also kept tight, and used to narrow the waist before the corset, a long or short coat, or a hat were used to supplement the female outfit. Ancient brooches, widespread in the Mediterranean, were used throughout the period.

    The fabric of women’s clothes in elite portraits shows that colourful dyes were common as was intricate embroidery.[20]

    Male Minoan dress

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    The loincloth worn by both men and women of Crete is shown in this fresco of a religious event where the women are light-skinned and the man is deeply tanned.

    Our knowledge of the dress of male minoans is exceptionally limited as most depictions focus on women. Where we see men they are depicted they wearing a phallic sheath or codpiece. These would sometimes be embroidered or with a simple patterned border. Males are also frequently seen wearing a tight fitting belt, perhaps to accentuate the waist.[21]

    Men appear to have grown their hair long, and styled it in a variety of ways, including elaborate braids and knots.[21]

    Ancient Israelite clothing

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    In a rare depiction of Israelite clothing, King Jehu, or possibly his ambassador, kneels at the feet of Shalmaneser III on the Black Obelisk.

    Main article: Biblical clothing

    Men

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    Undergarments

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    The earliest and most basic garment was the ezor (/eɪˈzɔːr/ ay-ZOR)[22] or ḥagor (/xəˈɡɔːr/ khə-GOR),[23] an apron around the hips or loins,[24] that in primitive times was made from the skins of animals.[25] It was a simple piece of cloth worn in various modifications, but always worn next to the skin.[24] Garments were held together by a belt or girdle, also called an ezor or ḥagor.[25]

    The ezor later became displaced among the Hebrews by the kuttoneth (/kɛˈtɔːnɛt/ ket-AW-net).[26] an under-tunic.[24][25] The kuttoneth appears in Assyrian art as a tight-fitting undergarment, sometimes reaching only to the knee, sometimes to the ankle. [24] The kuttoneth corresponds to the undergarment of the modern Middle Eastern agricultural laborers: a rough cotton tunic with loose sleeves and open at the breast.[24] Anyone dressed only in the kuttoneth was considered naked.[25]

    Outer garments

    [edit]simla

    The simla (/sɪmˈlɑː/ sim-LAH)[27] was the heavy outer garment or shawl of various forms.[24] It consisted of a large rectangular piece of rough, heavy woolen material, crudely sewn together so that the front was unstitched and with two openings left for the arms.[24][25] Flax is another possible material.[25]

    In the day it was protection from rain and cold, and at night peasant Israelites could wrap themselves in this garment for warmth[24][25] (see Deuteronomy 24:13). The front of the simla also could be arranged in wide folds (see Exodus 4:6) and all kinds of products could be carried in it[24][25] (See 2Kings 4:39Exodus 12:34).

    Every respectable man generally wore the simla over the kuttoneth (See Isaiah 20:2–3), but since the simla hindered work, it was either left home or removed when working.[24][25] (See Matthew 24:18). From this simple item of the common people developed the richly ornamented mantle of the well-off, which reached from the neck to the knees and had short sleeves.[24]me’il

    The me’il (/məˈiːl/ mə-EEL)[28] or cloak was generally worn over the undergarment,[25] (See 1Samuel 2:191Samuel 15:27). The me’il was a costly wrap (See 1Samuel 2:191Samuel 18:41Samuel 24:51Samuel 24:11) and, according to the description of the priest’s me’il, was similar to the sleeveless abaya (Exodus 28:31).[24] This, like the me’il of the high priest, may have reached only to the knees, but it is commonly supposed to have been a long-sleeved garment made of a light fabric, probably imported from Syria.[25]

    Religious wear

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    The Torah commands that Israelites wear tassels or fringes (ẓiẓit/tsiːˈtsiːt/ tsee-TSEET[29] or gedilim/ɡɛˈdiːl/ ghed-EEL[30]) attached to the corners of garments (see Deuteronomy 22:12Numbers 15:38). Women would wear head coverings.

    Phylacteries or tefillin (Hebrew: תְפִלִּין) are in use by New Testament times (see Matthew 23:5). Tefillin are boxes containing biblical verses that are attached to the forehead and arm by leather straps. They are worn only during prayer.[31]

    Headwear

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    Depictions show some Hebrews and Syrians bareheaded or wearing merely a band to hold the hair together.[24] Hebrew peasants undoubtedly also wore head coverings similar to the modern keffiyeh, a large square piece of woolen cloth folded diagonally in half into a triangle.[24] The fold is worn across the forehead, with the keffiyeh loosely draped around the back and shoulders, often held in place by a cord circlet. Men and women of the upper classes wore a kind of turban, cloth wound about the head. The shape varied greatly.[24]

    Footwear

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    Sandals (na’alayim) of leather were worn to protect the feet from burning sand and dampness.[25] Sandals might also be of wood, with leather straps (Genesis 14:23Isaiah 5:27).[24] Sandals were not worn in the house nor in the sanctuary[24][25] (see Exodus 3:5Joshua 5:15).

    Women

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    A woman’s garments mostly corresponded to those of men: they wore simla and kuttoneth.[24][25] Women’s garments evidently differed too from that of men[24][25] (see Deuteronomy 22:5). Women’s garments were probably longer (compare Nahum 3:5Jeremiah 13:22Jeremiah 13:26Isaiah 47:2), had sleeves (2Samuel 13:19), presumably were brighter colors and more ornamented, and may also have been of finer material.[24][25]

    Women used to wear veils in public, which distinguished them from women in pagan ancient societies.[32][33] Even as the custom of veiling dwindled among other ancient societies Israelite females retained it for religious identification.[34][33] Shawls, dictated by Jewish piety, and other forms of head coverings were also worn by ancient Israelite women in towns such as Jerusalem.[35]

    Ancient Greek clothing

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    Main article: Clothing in ancient Greece

    Statues at the “House of Cleopatra” in Delos, Greece. Man and woman wearing the himation

    Ancient Greece is famous for its philosophy, art, literature, and politics. As a result, classical period Greek style in dress often has been revived when later societies wished to evoke some revered aspect of ancient Greek civilization, such as democratic government. A Greek style in dress became fashionable in France shortly after the French Revolution (1789–1799), because the style was thought to express the democratic ideals for which that revolution was fought, no matter how incorrect the understanding of the historical reality was.

    Clothing reformers later in the 19th century AD admired ancient Greek dress because they thought it represented timeless beauty, the opposite of complicated and rapidly changing fashions of their time, as well as the more practical reasoning that Grecian-style dresses required far less cloth than those of the Rococo period.

    Clothing in ancient Greece primarily consisted of the chitonpeploshimation, and chlamys. While no clothes have survived from this period, descriptions exist from contemporary accounts and artistic depiction. Clothes were mainly homemade, and often served many purposes (such as bedding). Despite popular imagination and media depictions of all-white clothing, elaborate design and bright colors were favored.[36]

    Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of linen or wool fabric, which generally was rectangular. Clothes were secured with ornamental clasps or pins (περόνη, perónē; cf. fibula), and a belt, sash, or girdle (zone) might secure the waist.Peplos, Chitons

    The inner tunic was a peplos or chiton. The peplos was worn by women. It was usually a heavier woollen garment, more distinctively Greek, with its shoulder clasps. The upper part of the peplos was folded down to the waist to form an apoptygma. The chiton was a simple tunic garment of lighter linen, worn by both genders and all ages. Men’s chitons hung to the knees, whereas women’s chitons fell to their ankles. Often the chiton is shown as pleated. Either garment could be pulled up under the belt to blouse the fabric: kolpos.Strophion, Epiblema, Veil

    strophion was an undergarment sometimes worn by women around the mid-portion of the body, and a shawl (epiblema) could be draped over the tunic. Women dressed similarly in most areas of ancient Greece although in some regions, they also wore a loose veil as well at public events and market.Chlamys

    The chlamys was made from a seamless rectangle of woolen material worn by men as a cloak; it was about the size of a blanket, usually bordered. The chlamys was typical Greek military attire from the 5th to 3rd century BC. As worn by soldiers, it could be wrapped around the arm and used as a light shield in combat.Himation

    The basic outer garment during winter was the himation, a larger cloak worn over the peplos or chlamys. The himation has been most influential perhaps on later fashion.Athletics and nudity

    During Classical times in Greece, male nudity received a religious sanction following profound changes in the culture. After that time, male athletes participated in ritualized athletic competitions such as the classical version of the ancient Olympic Games, in the nude as women became barred from the competition except as the owners of racing chariots. Their ancient events were discontinued, one of which (a footrace for women) had been the sole original competition. Myths relate that after this prohibition, a woman was discovered to have won the competition while wearing the clothing of a man—instituting the policy of nudity among the competitors that prevented such embarrassment again.

    Ancient Roman and Italic clothing

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    Etruscan dancers in the Tomb of the Triclinium near TarquiniaItaly (470 BC)

    The clothing of ancient Italy, like that of ancient Greece, is well known from art, literature & archaeology. Although aspects of Roman clothing have had an enormous appeal to the Western imagination, the dress and customs of the Etruscan civilization that inhabited Italy before the Romans are less well imitated (see the adjacent image), but the resemblance in their clothing may be noted. The Etruscan culture is dated from 1200 BC through the first two phases of the Roman periods. At its maximum extent during the foundation period of Rome and the Roman kingdom, it flourished in three confederacies of cities: of Etruria, of the Po valley with the eastern Alps, and of Latium and Campania. Rome was sited in Etruscan territory. There is considerable evidence that early Rome was dominated by Etruscans until the Romans sacked Veii in 396 BC.

    In ancient Rome, boys after the age of sixteen had their clothes burned as a sign of growing up. Roman girls also wore white until they were married to say they were pure and virginal.

    Toga and tunics

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    Main article: Clothing in ancient Rome

    The tunic was adapted into many styles and was the basic garment of adults in ancient Rome after the 2nd century BC

    Probably the most significant item in the ancient Roman wardrobe was the toga, a one-piece woolen garment that draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body. Togas could be wrapped in different ways, and they became larger and more voluminous over the centuries. Some innovations were purely fashionable. Because it was not easy to wear a toga without tripping over it or trailing drapery, some variations in wrapping served a practical function. Other styles were required, for instance, for covering the head during ceremonies.

    Historians believe that originally the toga was worn by all Romans during the combined centuries of the Roman monarchy and its successor, the Roman Republic. At this time it is thought that the toga was worn without undergarments.[citation needed] Free citizens were required to wear togas because only slaves and children wore tunics. By the 2nd century BC, however, it was worn over a tunic, and the tunic became the basic item of dress for both men and women. Women wore an outer garment known as a stola, which was a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chitons.

    Although togas are now thought of as the only clothing worn in ancient Italy, in fact, many other styles of clothing were worn and also are familiar in images seen in artwork from the period. Garments could be quite specialized, for instance, for warfare, specific occupations, or for sports. In ancient Rome women athletes wore leather briefs and brassiere for maximum coverage but the ability to compete.

    Girls and boys under the age of puberty sometimes wore a special kind of toga with a reddish-purple band on the lower edge, called the toga praetexta. This toga also was worn by magistrates and high priests as an indication of their status. The toga candida, an especially whitened toga, was worn by political candidates. Prostitutes wore the toga muliebris, rather than the tunics worn by most women. The toga pulla was dark-colored and worn for mourning, while the toga purpurea, of purple-dyed wool, was worn in times of triumph and by the Roman emperor.

    After the transition of the Roman Republic into the Roman Empire in c. 44 BC, only men who were citizens of Rome wore the toga. Women, slaves, foreigners, and others who were not citizens of Rome wore tunics and were forbidden from wearing the toga. By the same token, Roman citizens were required to wear the toga when conducting official business. Over time, the toga evolved from a national to a ceremonial costume. Different types of togas indicated age, profession, and social rank. Roman writer Seneca criticized men who wore their togas too loosely or carelessly. He also criticized men who wore what were considered feminine or outrageous styles, including togas that were slightly transparent.

    The late toga of adult citizens, the toga virilis, was made of plain white wool and worn after the age of fourteen. A woman convicted of adultery might be forced to wear a toga as a badge of shame and curiously, as a symbol of the loss of her female identity.

    The ancient Romans were aware that their clothing differed from that of other peoples. In particular, they noted the long trousers worn by people they considered barbarians from the north, including the Germanic Franks and Goths. The figures depicted on ancient Roman armored breastplates often include barbarian warriors in shirts and trousers.

    • Mosaic of ancient women dressed for sports – Roman villa near Piazza Armerina – Sicily
    • Livia Drusilla (58 BC–29 AD) wearing a stola and palla – early 1st century AD – Museo Arqueológico Nacional de España, Madrid
    • Augustus (63 BC–14 AD) wearing a toga and calcei patricii (shoes reserved for Patricians), a capsa (container for documents) lies at his feet – late 1st century AD – Museo Nazionale Romano Rome

    Symbolism and influence

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    Bust of Marianne, a French national symbol, adopting a Phrygian cap in imitation of freed slaves of Rome – Palais du LuxembourgParis

    Roman clothing took on symbolic meaning for later generations. Roman armour, particularly the muscle cuirass, has symbolized amazing power. In Europe during the Renaissance (15th and 16th centuries AD), painters and sculptors sometimes depicted rulers wearing pseudo-Roman military attire, including the cuirass, military cloak, and sandals.

    Later, during the French Revolution, an effort was made to dress officials in uniforms based on the Roman toga, to symbolize the importance of citizenship to a republic. Adopted by the rank and file revolutionaries, the 18th-century AD liberty cap, a brimless, limp cap fitting snugly around the head, was based on a bonnet worn by freed slaves in ancient Rome, the Phrygian cap.

    The modern Western bride also has inherited elements from ancient Roman wedding attire, such as the bridal veil and the wedding ring.

    Ancient Indian clothing

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    Main article: History of clothing in India

    hideThis section has multiple issues. Please help improve it or discuss these issues on the talk page(Learn how and when to remove these messages)This section needs additional citations for verification(January 2015)This section may need to be rewritten to comply with Wikipedia’s quality standards, as needs additional references – See discussion(January 2015)

    Evidence of ancient Indian clothing can be found in figurines, rock cut sculptures, cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These sculptures show human figures wearing clothes wrapped around the body, such as sariturbans and dhoti. Upper classes of the society wore fine muslin and imported silk fabrics while the common classes wore locally made fabrics such as cotton, flax, wool, linen, and leather.

    India was one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used as early as 2500 BC during the Harappan Era (3300–1300 BC). Recent analysis of Harappan silk fibers in beads have shown that silk was made by the process of reeling, an art known only to China until the early centuries AD. The only evidence found for clothing is from iconography and some unearthed Harappan figurines which are usually unclothed. These little depictions show that usually men wore a long cloth wrapped over their waist and fastened it at the back (just like a close clinging dhoti). Turbans were worn, and a long robe over the left shoulder was worn by those of high social rank. The normal attire of the women at that time was a skirt up to knee length leaving the waist bare, and cotton head dresses. Jewellery was very popular, and men wore their hair in various styles with trimmed beards.

    Vedic period (c. 1750 – 500 BC) garments for both sexes included a single cloth wrapped around the whole body and draped over the shoulder. A lower garment called paridhana was pleated in front and tied with a belt (mekhala), and worn with a shawl-like upper garment called uttariya. Orthodox males and females usually wore the uttariya by throwing it over the left shoulder only, in the style called upavita.[37] The lower garment was called ‘nivi’ or ‘nivi bandha’, while the upper body was mostly left bare. In cold weather a garment called pravara was worn. Sometimes the poor people wore the lower garment as a loincloth, while the rich wore foot-length pravara to show their prestige. Vedic women mainly wore the sari, which is derived from शाटी, the Sanskrit for ‘strip of cloth’ śāṭī.[38] Towards the later Vedic period, the choli and dupatta, a smaller version of sari, were introduced. The dupatta was worn with ghaghara (an ankle-length skirt). Vedic men wore lungi (a garment like a sarong and dhoti, a single cloth wrapped around the waist and legs which is still traditionally worn by men in villages.[39] Wool, linen, silk and cotton were the main fibers used for making clothes, with woven stripes and checks. Gold jewellery remained very popular.

    Evidence of clothing worn during the Maurya Empire (322–185 BC) comes from statues of yakshini, the female epitome of fertility. The most common attire of the people at that time was a lower garment called antariya, generally made of cotton, linen or muslin and decorated with gems, and fastened in a looped knot at the centre of the waist. A cloth was covered in lehenga style around the hips to form a tubular skirt. Another embellished long piece of cloth, hanging at the front and wrapped around the waist, was called patka . Mauryan Empire ladies often wore an embroidered fabric waistband with drum headed knots at the ends. As an upper garment, people’s main garb was uttariya, a long scarf worn in several ways.

    Ancient Sumerian clothing

    [edit]

    Statue of a male worshipper and the typical dress in Ancient Sumer

    Ancient Sumer, between the periods of 3500-1000 BCE, was one of the first ancient civilizations to have distinct qualities that made it a civilization. Located in the Mesopotamian valley, Ancient Sumer was in the perfect location for trading and developing a flourishing society. Evidence from statues and wall paintings as well as written works help depict what society was like in that era. Society was very patriarchal and stratified by class. Wool was one of the biggest products of Ancient Sumer. Sumerian women would weave and spin the wool into textiles while the Sumerian men would dye the textiles to be different colored.

    Kaunakes

    [edit]

    Both men and women alike wore skirts or tunics called KaunakesKaunakes were made out this fleece-like textile on the exterior and the interior was made out of sheepskin. The length of the kaunake determined hierarchal rank in society. The shorter the length of the skirt, the lower an individual was in society ie slaves, soldiers, and servants. The longer the length of the skirt, the higher an individual was in society ie royalty and priests.[40]

    Woven dress

    [edit]

    Around 2370 BCE, there was a switch from the traditional non-woven dress to woven dress. This included the addition of shawls and longer fabrics that would wrap around the shoulders and waist, almost mimicking a toga from Ancient Greece. This type of dress by the Ancient Sumerians inspired many other civilizations such as Ancient Greece, Egypt, Assyria, and Rome. For the upper class, these woven fabrics were dyed brilliant colors and decorated to show the status of an individual. Linen was a woven fabric that typically was only made for those with higher class.[41]

    Women’s Dress

    [edit]

    Women typically wore either the kaunakes or woven dresses that left their right shoulder and right arm uncovered. These fabrics were usually embroidered with some type of design to stand out. Their hair was usually left in either braids or in updos.[42] A lot of the time, they would braid beads into their hair for special events. The princesses and high women in society typically chose to decorate themselves in the most lavish fabrics that were an array of colors. Makeup was also worn, displaying the necessity and want for color in Sumer. Women would typically wear sandals on their feet or would go barefoot if they were lower class.

    Men’s Dress

    [edit]

    In Early Sumer, men took on the fashion of cavemen almost[citation needed]and would wear strings with loincloths attached. Later on, men typically wore no shirts and a kaunake. In the winter, they would wear a woven wool or flax shawl or cape. Typically kings, priests, and high officials would wear kaunakes down to the floor and these skirts would be embedded with ornaments and tassels and fringes. Men would usually wear their hair down and grow out long beards (meant to signify wisdom) that were curled artificially and treated with oils to maintain the curl. Men with higher status, especially priests, would shave their head and beards. Men would also wear sandals on their feet or go barefoot if they were lower class.

    Carnelian Jewelry was used to add more color and liveliness

    Accessories

    [edit]

    If there is one thing Sumerians loved, is their jewelry. Jewelry was typically made out of gold, silver, and bronze and was frequently embedded with carnelian, a reddish-orange gemstone.[42] Ancient Sumerians made everything from headdresses, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, and so much more. Jewelry was typically worn during religious celebrations. Jewelers were especially talented in creating bronze artwork, especially using flowers and beadwork to accomplish this mastery.[42]

  • TEXTILE

    Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarnsfilamentsthreads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word “textiles” only referred to woven fabrics.[1][2][3] However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing.[4] In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jacketsspacesuits, and doctor’s gowns.[3][5][4]

    Textiles are divided into two groups: consumer textiles for domestic purposes and technical textiles. In consumer textiles, aesthetics and comfort are the most important factors, while in technical textiles, functional properties are the priority.[4][6] The durability of textiles is an important property, with common cotton or blend garments (such as t-shirts) able to last twenty years or more with regular use and care.

    Geotextilesindustrial textilesmedical textiles, and many other areas are examples of technical textiles, whereas clothing and furnishings are examples of consumer textiles. Each component of a textile product, including fiber, yarn, fabric, processing, and finishing, affects the final product. Components may vary among various textile products as they are selected based on their fitness for purpose.[4][7][6]

    Fiber is the smallest fabric component; they are typically spun into yarn, and yarns are used to manufacture fabrics.[8][7] Fiber has a hair-like appearance and a higher length-to-width ratio. The sources of fibers may be naturalsynthetic, or both. The techniques of felting and bonding directly transform fibers into fabric. In other cases, yarns are manipulated with different fabric manufacturing systems to produce various fabric constructions. The fibers are twisted or laid out to make a long, continuous strand of yarn.[9] Yarns are then used to make different kinds of fabric by weaving, knitting, crochetingknottingtatting, or braiding.[10][11][5] After manufacturing, textile materials are processed and finished to add value, such as aesthetics, physical characteristics, and increased usefulness.[12] The manufacturing of textiles is the oldest industrial art.[13] Dyeingprinting, and embroidery are all different decorative arts applied to textile materials.[14]

    Etymology

    [edit]

    Textile

    [edit]

    The word ‘textile’ comes from the Latin adjective textilis, meaning ‘woven’, which itself stems from textus, the past participle of the verb texere, ‘to weave’.[15] Originally applied to woven fabrics, the term “textiles” is now used to encompass a diverse range of materials, including fibers, yarns, and fabrics, as well as other related items.[9][16][3]

    Fabric

    [edit]

    “Fabric” redirects here. For other uses, see Fabric (disambiguation).

    A “fabric” is defined as any thin, flexible material made from yarn, directly from fibers, polymeric film, foam, or any combination of these techniques. Fabric has a broader application than cloth.[17][18] Fabric is synonymous with cloth, material, goods, or piece goods.[4][5] The word ‘fabric’ also derives from Latin, with roots in the Proto-Indo-European language. Stemming most recently from the Middle French fabrique, or “building,” and earlier from the Latin fabrica (‘workshop; an art, trade; a skillful production, structure, fabric’), the noun fabrica stems from the Latin faber” artisan who works in hard materials’, which itself is derived from the Proto-Indo-European dhabh-, meaning ‘to fit together’.[19]

    Cloth

    [edit]

    Cloth merchant’s shop
    A replica draper’s shop at the Museum of Lincolnshire Life, Lincoln, England

    Cloth is a flexible substance typically created through the processes of weaving, felting, or knitting using natural or synthetic materials.[20] The word ‘cloth’ derives from the Old English clað, meaning “a cloth, woven, or felted material to wrap around one’s body’, from the Proto-Germanic klaithaz, similar to the Old Frisian klath, the Middle Dutch cleet, the Middle High German kleit and the German kleid, all meaning ‘garment’.[21]

    Although cloth is a type of fabric, not all fabrics can be classified as cloth due to differences in their manufacturing processes, physical properties, and intended uses. Materials that are woven, knitted, tufted, or knotted from yarns are referred to as cloth, while wallpaper, plastic upholstery products, carpets, and nonwoven materials are examples of fabrics.[17]

    History

    [edit]

    Main article: History of clothing and textiles

    Textiles themselves are too fragile to survive across millennia; the tools used for spinning and weaving make up most of the prehistoric evidence for textile work. The earliest tool for spinning was the spindle, to which a whorl was eventually added. The weight of the whorl improved the thickness and twist of the spun thread. Later, the spinning wheel was invented. Historians are unsure where; some say China, others India.[22]

    The precursors of today’s textiles include leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.[23]

    The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines. The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of northwest Romblon. The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles. The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.[24][25]

    The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.[26]

    Textile industry

    [edit]

    Main article: textile industry

    The textile industry grew out of art and craft and was kept going by guilds. In the 18th and 19th centuries, during the Industrial Revolution, it became increasingly mechanized. In 1765, when a machine for spinning wool or cotton called the spinning jenny was invented in the United Kingdom, textile production became the first economic activity to be industrialised. In the 20th century, science and technology were driving forces.[27][28] The textile industry exhibits inherent dynamism, influenced by a multitude of transformative changes and innovations within the domain. Textile operations can experience ramifications arising from shifts in international trade policies, evolving fashion trends, evolving customer preferences, variations in production costs and methodologies, adherence to safety and environmental regulations, as well as advancements in research and development.[29]

    The textile and garment industries exert a significant impact on the economic systems of numerous countries engaged in textile production.[30]

    Naming

    [edit]

    Sample of calico printed with a six-colour machine by Walter Crum & Co., from Frederick Crace CalvertDyeing and Calico Printing (1878)

    Most textiles were called by their base fibre generic names, their place of origin, or were put into groups based loosely on manufacturing techniques, characteristics, and designs.[31][32][33][34] Nylon, olefin, and acrylic are generic names for some of the more commonly used synthetic fibres.[35]

    NameProductTextiles named byDescription
    CashmereWool fiber obtained from cashmere goatsOriginKashmirCashmere is synonymous with the Kashmir shawl, with the term “cashmere” derived from an anglicisation of Kashmir.[36]
    CalicoPlain weave textile materialOriginCalicutThe fabric originated in the southwestern Indian city of Calicut.
    JaconetLightweight cotton fabric in plain weaveOriginJagannath PuriJaconet is anglicisation of Jagannath where it was originally produced.[37]
    JerseyA type of Knitted fabricOriginJerseyChannel IslandsJersey fabric was produced first at Jersey, Channel Islands.[36]
    KerseyA coarse woolen clothOriginKersey, SuffolkThe fabric is named after the town in the east of England.[36]
    Paisley (design)A type of motifDesignPaisley, RenfrewshireA town situated in the west central Lowlands of Scotland.[36]
    DosutiA handspun cotton clothCharacteristicsA coarse and thick cotton clothIn and around the 19th century Punjab and Gujarat were famous for production of various handspun cloths. Dosuti was distinguished by the number of yarns (Do+Suti translates to ‘two yarns’) used to produce it. Eksuti was another variety using a single thread.[38][39]
    Mulmul types such as āb-i-ravān running water, Baft Hawa woven air[40]Fine muslin fabric variations from Dacca in BengalCharacteristicsDelicate muslin typesDacca, in the eastern Indian subcontinent, produced a wide range of handwoven and spun muslins. Baft Hawa, which means “woven air”, Shabnam, which means “evening dew”, and ab-i-ravan, which means “flowing water” are some poetic names for soft muslins.[40][41]
    NainsookA plain weave fabric with soft handCharacteristicsPleasing to the eyesNain + Sook translates to “eye-pleasing”.[37]
    SwanskinA woven flannel clothCharacteristicsAppears and feels like swan skinA18th century fabric developed at Shaftesbury.[42]
    TansukhAnother type of Muslin with soft and delicate textureCharacteristicsPleasing to the bodyTan + Sukh translates to “body pleasing”. Tansukh was a fine, soft, and delicate textured cloth. The cloth type is mentioned in the 16th century Mughal time records, Ain-i-Akbari.[43]

    [edit]

    The related words “fabric[11] and “cloth[20] and “material” are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Material is an extremely broad term basically meaning consisting of matter, and requires context to be useful. A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geotextiles, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and upholstery. A fabric is a material made through weavingknitting, spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. Cloth may also be used synonymously with fabric, but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.[citation needed]

    • Greige goods: Textiles that are raw and unfinished are referred to as greige goods. After manufacturing, the materials are processed and finished.[44][12]
    • Piece goods: Piece goods were textile materials sold in cut pieces as specified by the buyer. Piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or made to a specific length, also known as yard goods.[45][46]

    Types

    [edit]

    A baby wearing many items of soft winter clothing: headband, cap, fur-lined coat, scarf, and sweater

    Textiles are various materials made from fibers and yarns. The term “textile” was originally only used to refer to woven fabrics, but today it covers a broad range of subjects.[16] Textiles are classified at various levels, such as according to fiber origin (natural or synthetic), structure (woven, knitted, nonwoven), finish, etc.[31][32][33][34] However, there are primarily two types of textiles:

    Consumer textiles

    [edit]

    Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. Textiles are used in many traditional hand crafts such as sewingquilting, and embroidery.[4]

    Technical textiles

    [edit]

    Technical textile is a branch of textile that focuses on the protection, safety and other functional performance attributes of textiles, unlike domestic textiles, where the primary focus is aesthetics and comfort., an EOD technician wearing a bomb suit Explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) suit.
    Nonwoven geotextile bags are much more robust than woven bags of the same thickness.

    Textiles produced for industrial purposes, and designed and chosen for technical characteristics beyond their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (such as implants), geotextile (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (such as clothing resistant to heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).

    In the workplace, textiles can be used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpackstentsnets, cleaning rags, transportation devices such as balloonskitessails, and parachutes; textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles.[4][6]

    Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements. Other forms of technical textiles may be produced to experiment with their scientific qualities and to explore the possible benefits they may have in the future. Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of “self-powering nanosystems”, using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy.[47][48]

    Significance

    [edit]

    Textiles are all around us. The textile is a component of basic needs like food and shelter. Textiles are everywhere in our lives, from bath towels to space suits. Textiles help humans by comforting, protecting, and extending their lives. Textiles meet our clothing needs, keeping us warm in the winter and cool in the summer. There are several applications for textiles, such as medical textiles, intelligent textiles, and automotive textiles. All of them contribute to the well-being of humans.[9]

    Serviceability in textiles

    [edit]

    The term “serviceability” refers to a textile product’s ability to meet the needs of consumers. The emphasis is on knowing the target market and matching the needs of the target market to the product’s serviceability. Serviceability or performance in textiles is the ability of textile materials to withstand various conditions, environments, and hazards. Aesthetics, durability, comfort and safety, appearance retention, care, environmental impact, and cost are the serviceability concepts employed in structuring the material.[clarification needed][49]

    Components

    [edit]

    Fibers, yarns, fabric construction, finishes and design are components of a textile product. The selection of specific components varies with the intended use, therefore the fibers, yarns, and fabric manufacturing systems are selected with consideration of the required performance.[49]

    Use and applications

    [edit]

    Commercial textiles/ Domestic textilesEnd usesTechnical textiles/ Industrial purpose textilesEnd uses
    ClothingClothing items for men, women and children. nightwearsportswear, lingerie, undergarmentsswimsuit. Accessories such as capsumbrella, socks, gloves, and handbags.[4][50]Agro-textilesAgro-textiles are used in agriculture, horticulture, aquaculture, landscape gardening and forestry. Mainly for crop protection, in crop development for instance shade nets, thermal insulation and sunscreen materials, windshield, antibird nets, covering livestock protection, suppressing weed and insect control, etc.[51]
    FurnishingUpholsterycurtainsdraperies, carpets, towels.[4][50]GeotextileTechnical textiles which are used in civil engineering, roads, airfields, railroads, embankmentsretaining structures, reservoirs, canals, dams, bank protection, coastal engineering and construction site silt fences, and protection of melting glaciers.[52]
    BeddingBed sheetskhesblanketspillows.[4][50]Automotive textileAirbagsseat beltsheadlinersupholstery, car carpets, and door card.[53]
    OthersShower curtains.[4]Medical textileimplantssuturesdressingsbandagesmedical gownsface masks.[4]
    IndutechThis particular sector includes conveyor beltsdrive beltsropes and cordages, filtration products, glass battery separators, decatising and bolting cloth, AGM (absorption glass mat) plasma screens, coated abrasives, composite materials, printed circuit boards, printer ribbon, seals, gaskets, paper making fabrics.[6]

    Other uses

    [edit]

    Textiles, textile production, and clothing were necessities of life in prehistory, intertwined with the social, economic, and religious systems. Other than clothing, textile crafts produced utilitarian, symbolic, and opulent items. Archaeological artifacts from the Stone Age and the Iron Age in Central Europe are used to examine prehistoric clothing and its role in forming individual and group identities.[54]

    Source of knowledge

    [edit]

    Artifacts unearthed in various archaeological excavations informs us about the remains of past human life and their activities.[55] Dyed flax fibers discovered in the Republic of Georgia indicate that textile-like materials were developed during the Paleolithic periodRadiocarbon dates the microscopic fibers to 36,000 years ago, when modern humans migrated from Africa.[25]

    Several textile remnants, such as the Inca Empire’s textile arts remnants, which embody the Incas’ aesthetics and social ideals, serve as a means for disseminating information about numerous civilizations, customs, and cultures.[56][57]

    There are textile museums that display history related to many aspects of textiles. A textile museum raises public awareness and appreciation of the artistic merits and cultural significance of the world’s textiles on a local, national, and international scale. The George Washington University Museum and Textile Museum in Washington, D.C., was established in 1925.[58]

    Narrative art

    [edit]

    The Bayeux Tapestry is a rare example of secular Romanesque art. The art work depicts the Norman Conquest of England in 1066.[59][60]

    Decorative art

    [edit]

    Main article: Textile arts

    Textiles are also used for decorative artAppliqué work of pipili is decorative art of Odisha, a state in eastern India, used for umbrellas, wall hangings, lamp shades, and bags. To make a range of decorative products, colored cloth in the shapes of animals, birds, flowers, are sewn onto a base cloth.[61]

    This section needs expansion with: summarize article Textile arts to give indication of the range of textile arts.. You can help by adding to it(September 2023)

    Architextiles

    [edit]

    Architextiles, a combination of the words architecture and textile, are textile-based assemblages. Awnings are a basic type of architectural textile.[62] Mughal Shahi Lal Dera Tent, which was a movable palace, is an example of the architextiles of the Mughal period.[63]

    Currency

    [edit]

    Textiles had been used as currency as well. In Africa, textiles were used as currency in addition to being used for clothing, headwear, swaddling, tents, sails, bags, sacks, carpets, rugs, curtains, etc.[64] Along the east–west axis in sub-Saharan Africa, cloth strip, which was typically produced in the savannah, was used as a form of currency.[65]

    Votive offering

    [edit]

    Textiles were among the objects offered to the gods [votive offering] in ancient Greece for religious purposes.[66]

    Fiber

    [edit]

    Main article: Fiber

    The smallest component of a fabric is fiber; fibers are typically spun into yarn, and yarns are used to make fabrics. Fibers are very thin and hair-like structures. The sources of fibers may be naturalsynthetic, or both.[9][67]

    Global consumption

    [edit]

    Global fiber production per person has increased from 8.4 kilograms in 1975 to 14.3 kilograms in 2021.[clarification needed] After a modest drop due to COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, global fiber output rebounded to 113 million tons in 2021. Global fiber output roughly doubled from 58 million tons in 2000 to 113 million tons in 2021 and is anticipated to reach 149 million tons in 2030.[68]

    The demand for synthetic fibers is increasing rapidly. This has numerous causes. Reasons include its low price, the demand-supply imbalance of cotton, and its [Synthetic fibers’] versatility in design and application. Synthetic fibers accounts for 70% of global fiber use, mainly polyester.[69] By 2030, the synthetic fiber market will reach 98.21 billion US dollars. From 2022 to 2030, the market is anticipated to increase by 5.1% per year.[70]

    Fiber sources

    [edit]

    • Natural fibers are obtained from plants, animals and minerals.[71] Since prehistoric times, textiles have been made from natural fibers. Natural fibers are further categorized as cellulosic, protein, and mineral.[72]
    • Synthetic or manmade fibers are manufactured with chemical synthesis.[71]
    • Semi-synthetic: A subset of synthetic or manmade fibers is semi-synthetic fiber. Rayon is a classified as a semi-synthetic fiber, made with natural polymers.

    Monomers are the building blocks of polymers. Polymers in fibers are of two types: additive or condensation. Natural fibers, such as cotton and wool, have a condensation polymer type, whereas synthetic fibers can have either an additive or a condensation polymer type. For example, acrylic fiber and olefin fibers have additive polymers, and nylon and polyester are condensation polymers.[73]

    Types

    [edit]

    NaturalSyntheticSemi-synthetic
    Cellulosic fibers (Vegetable or plant fibers)Protein fibers (Animal fibers)Mineral fibersPetroleum basedCellulose based
    CottonWoolAsbestosNylonRayon
    LinenSilkGlass fiberPolyesterAcetate
    JuteAcrylic fiberTriacetate
    HempOlefin fiber
    Bamboo FiberSpandex
    Aramid

    Fiber properties

    [edit]

    Fiber properties influence textile characteristics such as aesthetics, durability, comfort, and cost.[75] Fineness is one of the important characteristics of the fibers. They have a greater length-to-width ratio [100 times the diameter]. Fibers need to be strong, cohesive, and flexible. The usefulness of fibers are characterized on the basis of certain parameters such as strength, flexibility, and length to diameter ratio, and spinnability. Natural fibers are relatively short [staple] in length. Synthetic fibers are produced in longer lengths called filaments. Silk is the only natural fiber that is a filament. The classification of fibers is based on their origin, derivation, and generic types.[9][67]

    Certain properties of synthetic fibers, such as their diameter, cross section, and color, can be altered during production.[76]

    Cotton: Cotton has a long history of use in the clothing due to its favorable properties. This fiber is soft, moisture-absorbent, breathable, and is renowned for its long durability.

    Blends (blended textiles)

    [edit]

    Fabric or yarn produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. Final composition is liable for the properties of the resultant product. Natural and synthetic fibers are blended to overcome disadvantage of single fiber properties and to achieve better performance characteristics and aesthetic effects such as devoréheather effect, cross dyeing and stripes pattern etc. Clothing woven from a blend of cotton and polyester can be more durable and easier to maintain than material woven solely from cotton. Other than sharing functional properties, blending makes the products more economical.[77][78]

    Union or Union fabrics is the 19th century term for blended fabrics. While it is no longer in use.[79] Mixture or mixed cloth is another term used for blended cloths when different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.[80][81]

    Blended textiles are not new.

    • Mashru was a 16th-century fabric, is one of the earliest forms of “mixed cloth”, a material composed of silk and cotton.[82]
    • Siamoise was a 17th-century cotton and linen material.[83]

    Composition

    [edit]

    Fiber composition[84] the fiber blend composition of mixtures of the fibers,[85] is an important criterion to analyze the behavior, properties such as functional aspects, and commercial classification of the merchandise.[86][87][88]

    The most common blend is cotton and polyester. Regular blended fabric is 65% polyester and 35% cotton. It is called a reverse blend if the ratio of cotton predominates—the percentage of the fibers changes with the price and required properties.

    Blending adds value to the textiles; it helps in reducing the cost (artificial fibers are less expensive than natural fibers) and adding advantage in properties of the final product.[89][90] For instance, a small amount of spandex adds stretch to the fabrics.[91] Wool can add warmth.[92]

    Uses of different fibers

    [edit]

    Natural fibers

    [edit]

    Plant

    [edit]

    Bridal gown made from nettle fibers, probably worn by Eleonora Sophie Rantzau (1779-) at her wedding to Preben Bille-BraheHvedholm CastleNational Museum of Denmark.
    • Grassrushhemp, and sisal are all used in making rope.[93] In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibers from the plant are used. Coir (coconut fiber) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormatsbrushesmattresses, floor tiles, and sacking.
    • Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok.
    • Fibers from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper.
    • Cotton, flaxjutehempmodalbananabamboolotuseucalyptusmulberry, and sugarcane are all used in clothing.[94][95][96] Piña (pineapple fiber) and ramie are also fibers used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fibers such as cotton. Nettles have also been used to make a fiber and fabric very similar to hemp or flax. The use of milkweed stalk fiber has also been reported, but it tends to be somewhat weaker than other fibers like hemp or flax.
    • The inner bark of the lacebark tree is a fine netting that has been used to make clothing and accessories as well as utilitarian articles such as rope.
    • Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas.
    • Seaweed is used in the production of textiles: a water-soluble fiber known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fiber; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area.
    • Rayon is a manufactured fiber derived from plant pulp.[97] Different types of rayon can imitate feel and texture of silk, cotton, wool, or linen.

    Fibers from the stalks of plants, such as hemp, flax, and nettles, are also known as ‘bast’ fibers. Hemp fiber is yellowish-brown fiber made from the hemp plant. The fiber characteristics are coarser, harsher,[clarification needed] strong and lightweight. Hemp fiber is used primary to make twine, rope and cordage.[98]

    Animal

    [edit]

    Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin, or silk (in the case of silkworms).[clarification needed]

    • Wool refers to the hair of the domestic sheep or goat, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.[99] The lanolin and other contaminants are removed from the raw wool before further processing.[100]Woolen refers to a yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibers which have been combed to be parallel.
    • Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm which is spun into a smooth fabric prized for its softness. There are two main types of the silk: ‘mulberry silk’ produced by the Bombyx mori, and ‘wild silk’ such as Tussah silk (wild silk). Silkworm larvae produce the first type if cultivated in habitats with fresh mulberry leaves for consumption, while Tussah silk is produced by silkworms feeding purely on oak leaves. Around four-fifths of the world’s silk production consists of cultivated silk.[101] Silk products include pillow covers, dresses, tops, skirts, bed sheets, curtains.

    Microbes

    [edit]

    Bacterial cellulose can be made from industrial organic and agricultural waste, and used as material for textiles and clothing.[102]

    Mineral

    [edit]

    • Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting and adhesives, “transite” panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.
    • Glass fibre is used in the production of ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres. Glass fibres are woven and coated with Teflon to produce beta cloth, a virtually fireproof fabric which replaced nylon in the outer layer of United States space suits since 1968.[103]
    • Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewellery. Hardware cloth (US term only) is a coarse woven mesh of steel wire, used in construction. It is much like standard window screening, but heavier and with a more open weave.

    Minerals and natural and synthetic fabrics may be combined, as in emery cloth, a layer of emery abrasive glued to a cloth backing. Also, “sand cloth” is a US term for fine wire mesh with abrasive glued to it, employed like emery cloth or coarse sandpaper.

    Synthetic

    [edit]

    In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibers made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas.

    Synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing, as well as the manufacture of geotextiles. Synthetic fibers are those that are constructed by humans through chemical synthesis.

    • Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton.
    • Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armour.
    • Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools,[104] including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them.
    • Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing.
    • Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewearbras, and swimsuits.
    • Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek.
    • Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
    • Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.
    • Milk proteins have also been used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.[105] Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a biodegradablerenewable synthetic fibre.[106]
    • Carbon fibre is mostly used in composite materials, together with resin, such as carbon fibre reinforced plastic. The fibres are made from polymer fibres through carbonization.

    Production methods

    [edit]

    Main articles: Textile manufacturing and Textile industry

    Textile manufacturing has progressed from prehistoric crafts to a fully automated industry.[73] Over the years, there have been continuous improvements in fabric structure and design.[107]

    Production methodDescriptionInventors, inventions and milestones in progression
    BarkclothBarkcloth is made by pounding bark until it is soft and flat.[108][109]Bark is an older known fabric; ancient people around the world wore bark cloth daily until woven fabrics replaced it. In Indonesia, the bark cloth is associated with the Torajan people, who made it from the fermentation of inner bark of certain local trees, mulberry and pandanus. The Torajans used stones and wooden beaters to produce bark cloth.[110]Barkcloth dress of Lore Bada people in Lore Valley, Poso Regency, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. This collection of Central Sulawesi Museum was exhibited in Textile Museum Jakarta in November 2016.
    Felt and other nonwoven fabricsFelting is a method of manufacturing fabric directly from fibers by entangling, interlocking the fibers by mechanical action (like rubbing and pressing) and often aided by heat and moisture.[109]Felting is another old method of fabric manufacturing. While civilizations in the western Mediterranean improved their weaving skills, nomads in Central Asia learned how to make felt, a non-woven material, from wool.[111][109] Felting involves applying pressure and friction to a mat of fibers, working and rubbing them together until the fibers become interlocked and tangled, forming a nonwoven textile. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibers, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.[109] More recently, additional methods have been developed to bond fibers into nonwoven fabrics, including needle punching, adhesives, and chemical binding.[111][109][7]Kazakh felt yurtSpunbond nonwoven fabric
    WeavingWeaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanized.[112]Handlooms: Early looms date to 5000 BC. From antiquity until the mediaeval times, the loom improved in both Asia and Europe, despite the fact that the loom’s fundamental operation remained unchanged.[113] In 200 BC, the Chinese invented vertical looms and pedal looms, transforming the craft into an industry. By decreasing the worker’s workload, innovative solutions improved productivity.There were harnesses and heddles to govern the movement of the warp yarn, a shuttle to transport the weft yarns, a reed to compact the cloth, and a take up roller to roll down the cloth. By the 1st century AD, all necessary components for a loom were assembled.[114]Power looms: John Kay invented the flying shuttle in 1734 in Bury, Lancashire. It was one of the first innovations in the cotton woven fabric industry.[115] Samuel Crompton invented a spinning machine in 1779 that produced yarn faster than ever before. Then Edmund Cartwright invented the first power loom in 1785.[116]Jacquard loom: The Jacquard machine was a modified version of programmable loom developed in 1804. It was developed by Joseph Marie Jacquard based on earlier inventions by Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and Jacques Vaucanson (1740).The industrial revolution in the 18th century led to mass production of yarn and cloth, which led to the growth of the woven fabric part of the textile industry.[117]Warp and weft
    KnittingKnitting involves interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle, needle, or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop.[118]Hand knitting: Though knitting was developed by Danes around 900 BC it did not reach to other civilizations until 900 AD.[111] Europe learned to knit by hand around 1400. Three to four stockings could be knit in a week by 1450. William Lee invented a stocking frame in 1589 that could knit one stocking per day. Acceptance of Lee’s invention and subsequent modifications resulted in a wide range of fabrics in Europe.[119] The machine knitting is separated into two main groups of production processes: warp knitting and weft knitting.Loop formation. Structure of stockinette stitch in a weft knitted fabric.
    NålebindingNålebinding involves the use of a needle to form loops of yarn, by passing the full length of yarn through each loop (unlike knitting and crocheting).Nålebinding is a precursor of crocheting and knitting.Mittens produced by nålebinding
    CrochetingCrocheting never involves more than one active stitch on the needle. Knitting can be performed by machine, but crochet can only be performed by hand.[118]Crocheting was originally practised by Scottish peasants with a small, hooked needle known as a shepherd’s hook.[120]Most crochet uses one hook and works upon one stitch at a time. Crochet may be worked in circular rounds without any specialized tools, as shown here.
    Spread towSpread tow is a production method where the tow fibers are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are woven as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials; spread tow fabrics can be made in carbonaramid and other fibers.
    Braiding or plaitingBraiding or plaiting involves intertwining threads together into cloth.Braiding
    KnottingKnotting involves tying threads together and is used in making tatting and macrame.[121][122]
    LaceLace is made by interlocking threads together to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand (e.g. needle lace or bobbin lace) or machine.[123]Bobbin lace in progress
    3D TextilesComplex interlacement of yarns where the final product has not plain form as flat fabrics, but 3D form.All technologies – weft knitting, warp knitting, weaving and braiding allow production of complex products with 3D form if suitable machine configuration and pattern are used. This technologies are used for woven heart valves, composite profiles and other.
    Additive manufactured textile like structuresFabric manufacturing by 3D printer employs additive manufacturing, also known as additive layer manufacturing (ALM), a CAD-aided manufacturing technique that builds the object layer by layer. The method is used in manufacturing of Auxetic textiles and in composite materials.[124]3D-printed outfit

    Important parameters in fabric selection:

    The primary consideration in fabric selection is the end use. The fabric needs vary greatly depending on the application. Similar types of fabric may not be suitable for all applications.[125]

    Fabric weight is an important criteria while producing different fabrics. A carpet requires a fabric with 1300 GSM, but a robe may be made with 160 GSM. Certainly, fabrics for clothes and carpets have distinct weights.[125]

    GSM (grams per square meter) rangeCategorizationTermed asSuitable for the textile products
    0-50Sheer fabricSheer curtains, Lingerie items, Wedding dresses,
    50-150Light weightTop weightBlouseLining, Shirt, T-shirt, Dress
    150–300Medium weightBottom weightSkirts, trousers, denims, and suits
    300–600Medium to heavy weightBull denimDrapery, overcoat, towel, slipcover, workwear
    More than 600HeavyCarpet, mat, upholstery, winter coats

    Stretchable fabrics have greater movability and are thus more comfortable than fabrics with no stretch or less stretch.[127]

    Textile exports

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    See also: List of countries by textile exports

    Top five exporters of textiles—2013
    ($ billion)
    China274
    India40
    Italy36
    Germany35
    Bangladesh28
    Source:[128]

    According to the UN Commodity Trade Statistics Database, the global textiles and apparel export market reached $772 billion in 2013.[129]

    Changing dynamics of the market

    [edit]

    China is the largest exporter of textile goods. Most of China’s exports consist of apparel, apparel accessories, textile yarns, and textile products. The competitive advantages of the China are low prices and abundant labor, lowered commercial obstacles, and a ready supply of raw materials. China, along with the United States and India, is a major producer of cotton.[130][131]

    China’s apparel market share has declined in recent years due to various reasons and a shift toward high-end, sophisticated products. Additionally, the investors from China made stakes in Myanmar, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Last year, its market share was 36.7%, or $161 billion, a decline of 8% year-over-year. In other words, China lost $14 billion in garment work orders to other countries in a single year. In 2016, Bangladesh’s apparel market share was valued at $28 billion, increasing 7.69 percent from the previous year.

    In 2016 the leading exporters of apparel were China ($161 billion), Bangladesh ($28 billion), Vietnam ($25 billion), India ($18 billion), Hong Kong ($16 billion), Turkey ($15 billion), and Indonesia ($7 billion).[132]

    Garment exports from Bangladesh reached record high in the 2021–2022 fiscal year; China ($220,302 billion), Bangladesh ($38.70 billion), India ($8.127 billion), Pakistan ($19.33 billion).[133]

    Finishing

    [edit]

    Early method of bleaching cotton and linen goods on lawns

    The fabric, when it leaves a loom or knitting machine, is not readily usable. It may be rough, uneven, or have flaws like skewing. Hence, it is necessary to finish the fabric. Finishing techniques enhance the value of the treated fabrics.[114] After manufacturing, textiles undergo a range of finishing procedures, including bleaching, dyeing, printing, as well as mechanical and chemical finishing.[12]

    Coloration

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    Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dyeing process often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.[134] Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220 CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making the textile pale or white.

    Color matching

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    In textiles, color matching extends beyond selecting the appropriate dyestuffs or pigments and combining them in precise proportions to achieve the desired end product color.[135] Meeting criteria for fastness, cost, and quality is also essential. This process plays a critical role in materializing a designer’s concept into an actual product.[135]

    Finishes

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    Textile finishing is the process of converting the loomstate or raw goods into a useful product, which can be done mechanically or chemically. Finishing is a broad term that refers to a variety of physical and chemical techniques and treatments that finish one stage of textile production while also preparing for the next. Textile finishing can include aspects like improving surface feel, aesthetical enhancement, and adding advanced chemical finishes.[12] A finish is any process that transforms unfinished products into finished products.[136] This includes mechanical finishing and chemical applications which alter the composition of treated textiles (fiber, yarn or fabric.)

    Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free.[137] More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.[138]

    Textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless. However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes, for example, have been shown to be allergenic to sensitive individuals.[139] Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown to induce purpuric contact dermatitis.[140]

    Eisengarn, meaning “iron yarn” in English, is a light-reflecting, strong material invented in Germany in the 19th century. It is made by soaking cotton threads in a starch and paraffin wax solution. The threads are then stretched and polished by steel rollers and brushes. The result of the process is a lustrous, tear-resistant yarn which is extremely hardwearing.[141][142]

    FinishingFabrics
    BrushingCarpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, referred to as pile fabrics, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.[143]
    Shearing“Shearing machine” is a machine equipped with shearing cylinder, ledger blade, fluff exhaust, and joint seam sensors. The machine operates similarly to a lawn mower.[144][145] Moleskin and velvet are sheared materials in which pile is cut to a certain level.[146]

    Environmental and health impacts

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    After the oil industry, the fashion industry is the second biggest polluter of agricultural land, which has several harmful impacts on the environment. As the industry grows, the effect on the environment is worsening.[147] Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest and most technologically complicated industries. This industry’s fundamental strength stems from its solid manufacturing base of a diverse range of fibers/yarns ranging from natural fibers such as jute, silk, wool, and cotton, to synthetic or manufactured fibers that include polyester, viscose, nylon, and acrylic.

    Textile mills and their wastewater have grown in proportion to the increase in demand for textile products, generating a severe pollution concern around the world. Numerous textile industry chemicals pose environmental and health risks. Among the compounds in textile effluent, dyes are considered significant contaminants. Water pollution generated by the discharge of untreated wastewater and the use of toxic chemicals, particularly during processing, account for the majority of the global environmental concerns linked with the textile industry.[148]

    Environmental impacts

    [edit]

    Clothing is necessary to meet the fundamental needs of humans. Increased population and living standards have increased the need for clothing, enhancing the demand for textile manufacturing; wet processing needs more water consumption.[149] Conventional machinery and treatment procedures use enormous quantities of water, especially for natural fibers, which require up to 150 kg of water per kg of material.[150] The textile sector is accountable for a substantial number of environmental impacts. However, the discharge of untreated effluents into water bodies is responsible for the majority of environmental harm produced by the textile sector.[151]

    The textile sector is believed to use 79 trillion litres of water per year and to discharge around 20% of all industrial effluent into the environment.[152] Reportedly, aromatic and heterocyclic compounds with color-display and polar groups make up most of the dyes used in textile coloration processes. The structure is more complex and stable, making it more difficult to degrade printing and dyeing wastewater.[153]

    In addition, textiles constitute a significant percentage of landfill waste. In 2023, North Carolina State University researchers used enzymes to separate cotton from polyester in an early step towards reducing textile waste, allowing each material to be recycled.[154]

    Health impacts

    [edit]

    Many kinds of respiratory diseases, skin problems, and allergies may be caused by dyes and pigments discharged into the water.

    Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction,[155] due to the presence of such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants (mainly in the brominated form) are also of concern where the environment, and their potential toxicity, are concerned.[156]

    Chemicals use, advantage and health impacts

    [edit]

    Certain chemical finishes contain potential hazards to health and the environment. Perfluorinated acids are considered to be hazardous to human health by the US Environmental Protection Agency.[157]

    Name of the substanceAdvantage in textile productsAssociated health risks and environmental impactsReferences
    Perfluorooctanoic acid ( PFOA), Polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon)Hydrophobic effectEndocrine disruptor[158][159]
    Fluorocarbon (PFC)Hydrophobic effectMay cause respiratory illness[160]
    BromineBrominated flame retardantPersistent, bioaccumulative and toxic substances may cause neurobehavioral disorders and endocrine disruption[161]
    Silver, silver nanoparticleAntimicrobial resistanceEnvironmental impact of silver nanoparticles and toxic effects on human health[162][163]

    Testing

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    Testing for these additives is possible at a number of commercial laboratories. It is also possible to have textiles tested according to the Oeko-tex certification standard, which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in textiles products.

    Laws and regulations

    [edit]

    Different countries have certain laws and regulations to protect consumers’ interests. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act is a law that protects consumers in the United States. The act protects producer and consumer interests by implementing labelling (required content disclosure) and advertising requirements on textile products. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act applies to all textile fiber products besides wool, which is governed by the Wool Product Label Number. The law prohibits misinformation about the fiber content, misbranding, and any unfair advertising practice, as well as requires businesses to operate in a particular manner.[164][4]

    Testing of textiles

    [edit]

    Testing occurs at various stages of the textile manufacturing process, from raw material to finished product. The purpose of testing is to evaluate and analyze the regulatory compliance, the product’s quality and performance, as well as to measure its specifications. Textile testing encompasses a wide range of methodologies, procedures, equipment, and sophisticated laboratories. Local governments and authorized organization’s such as ASTM InternationalInternational Organization for Standardization, and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists establish standards for testing of textiles.[165][166]

    Some examples of tests at different stages:

    For fiber: Fiber identification is a necessary test for determining fiber content and classifying products. The labelling of items with their fiber content percentage is a regulatory requirement. Using microscopy, solubility, and burn tests, fibers are distinguished from one another.[167] More fiber relating tests include fiber length, diameter, Micronaire.[168]

    For yarn: Yarn countDenier, Strength, evenness.

    For fabric: Dimensional stabilitycolor fastnessthread countG.S.Mpillingflammability.[165][166][169]

    [edit]